Copacabana and La Paz

The bus left early from Puno for the Bolivian border and Copacabana. I sat next to a cool Japanese kid, Taka, who was also traveling alone. He lives in Canada and was taking a few weeks vacation in South America. He is a skater and snowboarder so we had plenty to talk about. I was the only US citizen on the bus and when we arrived at the border I was singled out and taken to the front of the line. I had all of my paperwork in order and paid the $100 for the visa and BAM! I was in Bolivia. I had heard from several other US citizens who had been denied entry so I was a bit worried.

Shortly after the border we arrived in Copacabana. A very quaint town on the shores of Titicaca. We had about three hours to explore town and chill out. Not quite the old Barry Manilow song but still a sweet spot to hang out.

We switched busses and headed South another 4 hours to La Paz. I cant even begin to describe the level of poverty I saw as we drove thru the "towns" towards La Paz. I will truly take nothing for granted any more!!!! As we reached the outskirts of La Paz the mountains were very impressive, towering over 20,000 feet high and snow capped. The bus was slow as the highway was potholed, where it was asphalt, and full of muddy ruts where it was dirt - yes, the main highway!

La Paz is built in a natural bowl surrounded by tall mountains and my first glimpes gave me the feeling of, "why the hell did I come here". But at second glance the city was beautiful with all of the high rises and luxury homes down in the bottom of the bowl surrounded by shanty towns and the Andeas Mountains. The pollution was pretty bad but no worse than any city of 2 million or so. La Paz sits around 13,000 feet high so even walking up stairs takes your breath away! The Loki Hostel is killer. Built from an old 1920's hotel and sleeps about 150 folks. It is across the street from a national police barracks so the area is very safe, even late at night.

I immediately ran into a group of 5 Irish lads that I had met in Cusco and we decided to head out for dinner to an Argentinian Steakhouse. They import the beef direct from Argentina and man was it great! I split a 2.2kg slab of beef with Mike - all the fixins and a beer for about $10 each (less for him because he has euros). I literally cut the steak with a spoon!!!! Best beef I have ever had - cant wait to go to Argentina next trip.

We went a bit crazy later that night at a true speakeazy called Route 36. I finally made it back to the hostel around 5AM. Nuff said!

I woke up at 8 to meet my friends from Brasil and go on a tour. So happy to see them again,except Machi and Rafaella- they went to Buenas Aires to see Gabriel. We took a bus high above La Paz to Chacaltaya mountain. The bus stopped because of snow and 5 of us from the group of 15 hiked up to the top in knee deep snow. 5400 meters! Hard to breath up that high but it was soooooo worth it - even on two hours of sleep. I could see Lake Titicaca and the mountain in Peru off to the North and other snow capped peaks all around until the clouds rolled in. There was a ski resort there built in the late 30's so their are a few buldings and the old lift towers left. The guide said global warming led to reduced snowfall and the resort closed in the late 40's. There was enough snow to link up about 2000 vert if I had my board with me!!!

We hiked back down to the bus where all the Brasilian girls had made a huge snowman! Snow is a real novelty for them and all had a great time but were freeeeezing! The bus then took back down all the way thru central La Paz includig the financial district and the luxurious neighborhoods to Valle de Luna. This is a nice little park of crazy looking eroded mounds and spires of dirt - some 60 feet high - that is near the south end of the city. Reminded me a lot of Goblin Valley UT, or Bisti Badlands NM and several other areas in the desert SW of the States.

After the tour we all went to eat at a place called Brasso's. It was great food with a crazy atmosphere. A kind of mix of a McDonalds, Dennys and a retro 60's bar. Retro furniture and colors, a kids playland, picture menus, a full bar and even a small stage for a band to play! Nothing like that back in the States for sure. Walking around was a real adventure as Carnival was under full swing and the girls were popular targets for the water balloons, squit guns and cans of foam. We were all beat and I headed back to the hostel for a much needed nap.

Pedro woke me up around 11 ready to go out and hit the town with the rest of the crew. We went out to see a local legend, Pepe Morillo. He is a traditional Bolivian folk singer that has been performing for more than 30 years. The crowd was great, dancing and clapping and singing along to all the songs. It was full audience participation - there were only two of us from the US in the whole place. It was a ton of fun and a truly authentic Bolivian experience - not touristy at all!!!! Loved it. Pepe's show ended around 1am and we all headed to club Orange for some big city clubbin' till 4am! It was off to bed again with a plan to meet around noon to check out some museums on their last day before heading back to Rio.