Thursday, February 7, 2008

General thoughts

There are soooo many things that I cant or havent put into this blog. I still need time to digest some of the experiences I have had, some things a best left unsaid and other things I wont include out of respect for those of us involved!!

The poverty in Bolivia was eye opening. The people in general have all been very friendly and fun. the food is awesome. The museums were great and of course the ruins are breathtaking. The beaches are sweet and the mountain are awe-inspiring.

I have met many awesome people from all around the globe - over 30 countries!! Some I hope will be friends for life. I've also met a few bad apples and had a few challenging situations but I was able to go with the flow and ride out the storms!

My perspective of the world, and the influence the US has on it all, has changed profoundly. I've realized that I dont need all of those things that I always thought I needed - its just stuff. I'm sure I will change more as time goes on. . . .

Some things I will never take for granted again-
Food
water
a house
family
friends
ice
warm showers
toilet paper
toilets, for that matter
napkins
sharp knives
clean air - La Paz was rather polluted

I am States bound tonight. More thought and pics after I make it through the huge snowstorms back to Durango.

I hope you have enjoyed following along with my adventures.

Scott

Back to Peru and Lima

The next morning I set out to make my way back to Cusco. Carnival was still going on so the airport was closed and most of the bus companies were closed. I was lucky to get one of the last seats on a bus to Puno, Peru. It was a great ride thru the mountains with slow , steep hills to climb and tight turns to negotiate. We were just about to the border, I was deep into a book I am reading when I hear a thunderous schreeching noise and our bus shimmy side to side. I look out the window to see that a semi truck had hit us with its trailer goig around a tight curve. No one got hurt and we were on our way about 4 hours later.

I missed my planned bus connection to Cusco as a result of the accident but was able to catch an overnighter and arrived at Cusco about 5am. I went to Loki to collect some belongings I had left there. did a bit of gift shopping and went tot the airport. Tough choice- either a 24 hour bus ride to Lima for $55 or a one hour flight to Lima for $95. I landed in Lima about 1pm, checked into Loki, met some friends from earlier in the trip and hit the beach! We all went out clubbin later and a good time saying goodbye.

Another Day in Lima doing some gift shopping and hittin the beach again. Weather is in the mid 80's and its nice and sunny out. The surf was up and the beach was a bit crowded. Nice and releaxing way to end my trip. Going back to CO with a tan!!!

A local club in Barranco, another nice neighborhood next to Miraflores, hosted a Bob Marley tribute concert. The Band was really tight and mostly played originals. Pretty good reggae for sure - better than what we get in Durango. The place was packed with the cream of the crop from Lima - must have been the "thing" to do that night. There was was a TV crew filming and doing interviews. They said I would be on TV the next day but I didn't bother trying to watch. The show was great and there were only two other gringos in the whole place so it felt pretty authentic.

My last night in Peru was excellent!!!

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

The Death Road

I signed up to mountain bike the Death Road today. The tour group picked me up about 7 :30 and we had some breakfast and headed up to the top of the pass around 4300 meters high. It was cold and snowing lightly when we arrived. They passed out some decent pants, jackets, gloves and helemts to each of us. I think we had 7 in our group. The bikes were fairly new Trek models with decent front shocks and the extra fate wheels & tires.

The first 13km were on pavement down a winding, slippery road due to the snow and rain. Speeds were fast but I was unwilling to take turns to sharply. I stayed right on the guides butt while the rest of the group lagged about 10 minutes back. We stopped several times to marvel at the waterfalls and amazing peaks as they peeked thru the clouds & fog.

We finally hit the dirt for the remainder of the 45kms and I started to feel more comfortable on the bike. The road is wide but the drop offs are definitely scary, over 1000 feet in many places. It started to get warmer as we dropped in elevation. Still right behind the guide, he & I kicked it into high gear and hauled ass down the road thru huge mud pits and loose gravel. Kind felt like riding up on Kennebec.

Soon we decended into the jungle with thick vegetation, ferns the size of cars and vines dropping from the cliffs above. The road became more rocky and i got my first flat. The rest of the group caught up to us while under repair and then 5 minutes later I got another flat. Then two more flats!!!! I was really being aggressive but no more than any core durango biker would be. Just hitting every rock, stump, jump and tranny I could find:)

The rain let up but the waterfalls we gushing and impresive. We stopped for many photo opps and water breaks. At one stop the guide told us that there were several ledges coming up and that we should walk the bikes over them. Well I followed him closely and he bunny hopped right over them so I followed suit and on the third ledge, BAM!!! I completely tacoed my rear wheel- bent way beyond repair! The middle guide gave me his bike while he had to radio the van for help.

There were several section where recent landslides had covered the road over 20 feet high. The first few were older and firm, I could walk right over them. Then we came to one that was about 300 fet wide and I made my first step into it and sunk to my knee. the whole thing started moving downhill towards they cliff and I got pretty nervous. the guide quickly grabbed me and helped pull me out of the muck. It took about 1 hour to get the entire group across that slide. -

We turned a corner and i could see the river at the valley floor down below. I was energized and kicked it up`a nothch and then BAM! A rock flew up and broke my rear disc brake. I think I was having too much fun:) The clean up guide gave me his bike to finish the trail with and then right at the end I somehow busted the rear deraileur. Luckily I was able to coast to the bottom of the road thru about 2 miles of coca fields and farmers without any more hitches.

We ended the ride at about 1250 meters high in a lush valley filled with coca fields. They took us to a sweet little resort with a restaurant, swimming pool, hot showers and a killer flower garden. there were several local families there enjoying their Sunday, kids swimming and parents lounging. I noticed that all the vehicles in the parking lot were very nice for Bolivia and suspect that each of those families are making a living in the coca industry one way or another. they seemed very friendly and just like families from anywhere else. I had a big water fight with a few of the kids in the pool!

The rid back to La Paz was slow and I was beat. I got back to Loki, told some war stories and crashed out. This ride, scenery and experience was killer and worth way more than the $36 I pàid for it. Yea. . . . .

CARNIVAL in La Paz

Finally a good nights rest. I had a big breakfast and met up with Bel, Carla, Rai and Mi. WE split into two groups as the some needed to do some shopping and Bel took me to the museums. Unfortunately for me, Carnival is a national Holiday and almost everything was closed. I did my best to protect Bel from all the water balloons but a few made it thru and by the time we made it to the main square we were both soaked and foamy head to toe. So much fun. Everyone dressed in costumes and singing and dancing. I had to say goodbye to Bel as she had an appointment in the early afternoon with a Brasilian diplomat. Bel, Pedro, Carla and Mi were all able to stay in the Brasilian Embassy as guests of the Amabssador!! Bel's grandfather was a diplomat and her family is tight with the current ambassador in La Paz so they were all HOOKED UP and got to end their trip sleeping and eating in a Palace!!

I was able to check out the Coca museum which documented the history of coca use, production, illegality and just about everything to do with coca and cocaine. It was very well researched and informative. I was surprised to learn that there are currently over 30 countries that can legally produce cocaine - with the US being the first on the list, of course!

I met up with Carla and Mi for a short time for some last minute shopping and had a very hard time saying goodbye to them. I will miss you all very much and hope to see you again very soon - big hugs and kisses!!!! I headed back to Loki admist the Carnival and got completely soaked again by a huge group of kids. Boy, Camille sure would love this!!!!!

Pedro showed up to Loki around 10 with plans to stay up all night as he needed to be at the airport around 5am. We gathered up a couple of British friends I made at Loki and headed out to a few clubs for one last night of merryment. Traffic and Mongos were both fun clubs and we met some great locals including a kid that has dual citizenship in the US and Bolivia. He spends most of his time in La Paz and some in NYC.

We were all spent around 3am and it was time to say farewell to Pedro. I'll miss you Bro!!! Cant wait to see you again soon. Holy crap!! I have to be up in just 4 hours to go mountain bike the Death Road - the most deadly road in all the world, suposedly. . . . . .

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Copacabana and La Paz

The bus left early from Puno for the Bolivian border and Copacabana. I sat next to a cool Japanese kid, Taka, who was also traveling alone. He lives in Canada and was taking a few weeks vacation in South America. He is a skater and snowboarder so we had plenty to talk about. I was the only US citizen on the bus and when we arrived at the border I was singled out and taken to the front of the line. I had all of my paperwork in order and paid the $100 for the visa and BAM! I was in Bolivia. I had heard from several other US citizens who had been denied entry so I was a bit worried.

Shortly after the border we arrived in Copacabana. A very quaint town on the shores of Titicaca. We had about three hours to explore town and chill out. Not quite the old Barry Manilow song but still a sweet spot to hang out.

We switched busses and headed South another 4 hours to La Paz. I cant even begin to describe the level of poverty I saw as we drove thru the "towns" towards La Paz. I will truly take nothing for granted any more!!!! As we reached the outskirts of La Paz the mountains were very impressive, towering over 20,000 feet high and snow capped. The bus was slow as the highway was potholed, where it was asphalt, and full of muddy ruts where it was dirt - yes, the main highway!

La Paz is built in a natural bowl surrounded by tall mountains and my first glimpes gave me the feeling of, "why the hell did I come here". But at second glance the city was beautiful with all of the high rises and luxury homes down in the bottom of the bowl surrounded by shanty towns and the Andeas Mountains. The pollution was pretty bad but no worse than any city of 2 million or so. La Paz sits around 13,000 feet high so even walking up stairs takes your breath away! The Loki Hostel is killer. Built from an old 1920's hotel and sleeps about 150 folks. It is across the street from a national police barracks so the area is very safe, even late at night.

I immediately ran into a group of 5 Irish lads that I had met in Cusco and we decided to head out for dinner to an Argentinian Steakhouse. They import the beef direct from Argentina and man was it great! I split a 2.2kg slab of beef with Mike - all the fixins and a beer for about $10 each (less for him because he has euros). I literally cut the steak with a spoon!!!! Best beef I have ever had - cant wait to go to Argentina next trip.

We went a bit crazy later that night at a true speakeazy called Route 36. I finally made it back to the hostel around 5AM. Nuff said!

I woke up at 8 to meet my friends from Brasil and go on a tour. So happy to see them again,except Machi and Rafaella- they went to Buenas Aires to see Gabriel. We took a bus high above La Paz to Chacaltaya mountain. The bus stopped because of snow and 5 of us from the group of 15 hiked up to the top in knee deep snow. 5400 meters! Hard to breath up that high but it was soooooo worth it - even on two hours of sleep. I could see Lake Titicaca and the mountain in Peru off to the North and other snow capped peaks all around until the clouds rolled in. There was a ski resort there built in the late 30's so their are a few buldings and the old lift towers left. The guide said global warming led to reduced snowfall and the resort closed in the late 40's. There was enough snow to link up about 2000 vert if I had my board with me!!!

We hiked back down to the bus where all the Brasilian girls had made a huge snowman! Snow is a real novelty for them and all had a great time but were freeeeezing! The bus then took back down all the way thru central La Paz includig the financial district and the luxurious neighborhoods to Valle de Luna. This is a nice little park of crazy looking eroded mounds and spires of dirt - some 60 feet high - that is near the south end of the city. Reminded me a lot of Goblin Valley UT, or Bisti Badlands NM and several other areas in the desert SW of the States.

After the tour we all went to eat at a place called Brasso's. It was great food with a crazy atmosphere. A kind of mix of a McDonalds, Dennys and a retro 60's bar. Retro furniture and colors, a kids playland, picture menus, a full bar and even a small stage for a band to play! Nothing like that back in the States for sure. Walking around was a real adventure as Carnival was under full swing and the girls were popular targets for the water balloons, squit guns and cans of foam. We were all beat and I headed back to the hostel for a much needed nap.

Pedro woke me up around 11 ready to go out and hit the town with the rest of the crew. We went out to see a local legend, Pepe Morillo. He is a traditional Bolivian folk singer that has been performing for more than 30 years. The crowd was great, dancing and clapping and singing along to all the songs. It was full audience participation - there were only two of us from the US in the whole place. It was a ton of fun and a truly authentic Bolivian experience - not touristy at all!!!! Loved it. Pepe's show ended around 1am and we all headed to club Orange for some big city clubbin' till 4am! It was off to bed again with a plan to meet around noon to check out some museums on their last day before heading back to Rio.

Lake Titicaca

So my small group of 12 got dropped off on Atamani Island in Lake Titicaca to stay the night with various families. Two nice German girls and I stayed with Juana and her family of seven. She has a very nice home with views to die for. We enjoyed a traditional lunch of veggie soup and potatoes. She showed us her kitchen-no electricity but a light bulb! The food and company were great. One of her sons is into Bruce Lee and had posters all over his room and kept asking me if I knew karate. Other members of the group stayed with other families and had a similar experience.

We all hiked up to the top of the island to check out the ruins there. The entire island is terraced into small planting fields that each family works several of with different crops in each terrace. The terracing and the ruins are all pre-Inka culture and continue to be used! The views from the top of the island were stunning. It looks more like an ocean than a lake! We had a great dinner cooked by Juana and got to know her town a bit better. The school is in dire need of computers so I may try to collect some old machines and bring them down here in the future. Overall the people on this island were very friendly, glad to see tourists and had smiles on thier faces. The kids played in the field with the pigs, ducks and chickens. I even saw a few horses too.

A touristy party was planned for the evening but a big storm rolled in and dumped about two inches of hail on us canceling the party. No worries, I needed a good night of sleep.

The next morning we awoke to a heavy rain storm and a delicious breakfast from Juana - similar to grits with fresh bread and tea. We walked down to the harbor to catch our boat to another island before returning to Puno. The swells were 3-4 feet and it was an exciting boat ride to the other island, Oruni. We hiked again to the top of the island to see some more ruins. |The ruins were not that impressive and the people didnt seem very welcoming. Our guide said it was because of the rain, but I wonder. . . .

We boarded the boat around 2pm for the 3 hour trip back to Puno. The waters had calmed and we were cruising nicely for about 45 minutes when the boats motor died on us. There we were, adrift on Lake Titicaca for about two hours - totally Gilligans Island style. Several of the other passengers got scared and angry - I had no worries. Two other tour boats stopped to pick up passengers but there was no room for the two German girls and me. We hung out another hour playing cards, drinking pisco and laughing for another hour until another boat came for us. What a great time we had!

Needless to say I got back to Puno too late to cross the border into Bolivia so I stayed at a nice Hostel and checked out the town. There was a great pizza joint -wood fired, stone oven - and a fun reggae bar where I met a few locals and knocked back a few beers. Then it was too bed and off to Copacabana the next morning!